About a half of the hyaluronic acid our body naturally produces is dispensed to the cutaneous region where different molecules are synthesised in groups of weights between 50 kDa and 3000 kDa. As far as cosmetic grade is concerned, different molecular weights channel their intervention towards different skin levels.
- Low-molecular weight HA molecules are notably able to penetrate faster and deeper into the epidermis to reach the subcutaneous layers. Low MW HA moisturises the innermost areas of our skin and favours the physiological production of collagen and elastin, delivering tissue-plumping and wrinkle-smoothing long-term effects.
Furthermore, due to its deep-diving attitude, low-weight hyaluronic acid promotes skin absorption of other nutrients and cosmetic ingredients.
- Medium-MW hyaluronans provides a semi-long term moisturising effect stimulating fibroblasts and keratinocyte vitality. Its dimensions are the most well-suited to guarantee optimal interactions with surface receptors.
- HA with high molecular weight won’t penetrate the skin in its original shape. It will cease on the skin’s surface and form an invisible film coating able of trapping outgoing water, thus reducing transepidermal water loss. Besides its moisturising effects, high-MW hyaluronans offer a natural skin barrier that shield us from external agents such as cold, wind and UV rays.
Furthermore, it’s worth remembering that the HA natural degradation eventually turns high-MW molecules into medium and low MW hyaluronan building blocks, which the skin absorbs.
Last but not least, Hyaluronic Acid gives your skin a further antioxidant protection against free radicals that can break down collagen and elastin, accelerating the skin-aging process.
Some of our partners that don’t use full spectrum technologies habitually incorporate and mix different molecular weights hyaluronans together within their final products, in order to obtain the desired effect. Medium and high-weight HAs, due to their higher viscosity, are commonly used as thickening and texturising agents in skin essence serums.