When it comes to hyaluronans, different molecular weights channel their intervention towards different skin areas and trigger different biological mechanisms, delivering different finals results.
Roughly a half of the hyaluronic acid naturally synthetized by our body heads to the cutaneous region where we find a wide array of HA molecules weighting between 50 kDa and 3000 kDa. In fact, high-MW hyaluronans undergo a process of Hyaluronidases-induced hydrolysis that naturally breaks its long chains into smaller pieces, making its composition quite variegated. As such, formulating with multi-weight molecules kind of mimics what’s happening in our epidermis.
On the one hand, low-weight molecules are able to penetrate faster and deeper into the subcutaneous layers. While hydrating the innermost areas of our skin, they also stimulate the physiological production of endogenous hyaluronic acid, collagen and elastin, delivering tissue-plumping and wrinkle-smoothing long-term effects. Plus, such deep-diving attitude allows small hyaluronic acid molecules to promote skin absorption of other nutrients and cosmetic ingredients.
On the other, high molecular weight HA will cease on the skin’s surface to form an invisible film coating able to trap outgoing water and reduce transepidermal water loss. It provides instant smoothing and superficial hydrating effects. Then, HA natural break-down process eventually turns heavy molecules into smaller and easily-absorbable ones which penetrate deeper regions. Besides such moisturising effects, it also creates a natural skin barrier that shields us from external agents such as cold, wind and UV rays.
Sitting halfway through, medium-weighted hyaluronans provide a semi-long term moisturising effect, stimulating fibroblasts and keratinocyte vitality, its dimensions being the most well-suited to guarantee optimal interactions with surface receptors.
For a hyaluronan formulation to deliver both instant and long-lasting effects, you need a combination of different molecular weights. Blending low-MW such as SinoHyal XS with heavier ones like SinoHyal H will trigger a cascade of complementary results which can easily skyrocket the true value of your formulation.